Rabu, 20 Juli 2011

Fried Glutinous Rice

I've been eating glutinous rice for about a year now, in place of the non-sticky variety. I steamed some one day 'cause I was out of regular rice, and I haven't looked back since. It's more fragrant than regular rice though the quality does vary from brand to brand. I've tried three so far, and my favourite is Golden Pineapple; the other two being New Moon and Golden Phoenix. I can't say if Golden Pineapple is the best brand in the market, but it's good enough to stop me from looking for something better.

Non-sticky rice can be steamed or boiled but the sticky one can only be steamed. If steamed without the rice sitting in water, it should be soaked for several hours, which was what I did when I was a sticky rice novice. Of course, I didn't always have several hours' foresight into when I wanted to tuck into a bowl of piping hot rice, and hunger made my brain tick.

Hmm . . . instead of making the rice absorb water before cooking it, why not make it absorb water whilst it's being cooked? Hey, we all have to multi-task, even rice!


I added water to unsoaked rice in the steamer and – tadaaa! – I had perfectly cooked sticky rice in 20 minutes. Which I have since cut down to 15 minutes by using a wider, more shallow bowl. So that's all I need now, a quarter of an hour, for sticky rice steamed to perfection. Soaking is not necessary, neither is the special bamboo thingy used by the Thais.

Too much water makes sticky rice less fragrant, less chewy/'Q', and more sticky. The optimal amount is just enough water to cover the rice by about 0.5 cm. And if I have some pandan leaves handy, I cut a few small pieces and tuck 'em around the rice, which should be fluffed five minutes before it's done. And when it is, I have 'Q', fragrant sticky rice that's not very sticky at all. It is, for me, better than even Royal Umbrella's regular rice.

Isn't sticky rice very filling? Nope, not at all when it's au naturel. I cook the same amount whether the rice is sticky or not. But once sticky rice is turned into, say, bak chang, then it's a different story. It's the excessive oil in bak chang that makes you feel stuffed, not the rice. Don't believe me? Try some homemade Fried Glutinous Rice, with just 1⅛ teaspoonfuls of oil per portion. I promise it eats like regular fried rice, but better. Can you see that the rice grains are separate, not clumped together? That's because the rice isn't steamed at all but stir-fried till it's cooked. If you like your rice chewy, Fried Glutinous Rice would be your kind of paradise. Eat and go to heaven! Sorry, that didn't come out right . . . . Um, heavenly fried rice?

FRIED GLUTINOUS RICE (生炒糯米飯)
(Recipe for 4 persons)

1½ cups glutinous rice (320 g)
soak 3 hours and drain
8 medium size Chinese dried mushrooms (35 g)
wash and soak in 120 ml water till soft, 30 minutes or longer; squeeze dry, reserving water; cut into 1-cm dice, reserving stalks for other dishes
3 tbsp dried prawns (20 g)
wash and soak in 2 tbsp water till soft, 30 minutes or longer; squeeze dry, reserving water
100 g pork (shoulder butt)
wash and cut into 1-cm dice; marinate 15 minutes or longer with 1 tsp each of light soya sauce, Shaoxing wine and egg
2 eggs (use 1 tsp for marinating pork)
beat with dash of ground white pepper, pinch of sugar, 1 tsp light soya sauce and 1 tsp Shaoxing wine

1½ tbsp oil from deep-frying shallots, or white sesame oil
2 tbsp Shaoxing wine
¼ tsp salt
½ cup water
1½ tbsp oyster sauce

3 tbsp deep-fried shallots
3 tbsp roughly chopped spring onions
ground white pepper to taste
½ tsp toasted white sesame seeds

The pork may be replaced with some diced lap cheong. If you're doing that, remember to go easy on the oil, salt and oyster sauce.

Prepare glutinous rice, dried mushrooms, dried prawns and pork as detailed above.

In a well-seasoned or non-stick wok, make a thin omelette with eggs using ½ tbsp oil. Chop roughly (just jab violently with your spatula when omelette is almost done, as if it's your boss/mother-in-law). Set aside.

Add remaining 1 tbsp oil to the wok. Stir-fry dried prawns over high heat till lightly golden. Add mushrooms and stir-fry till fragrant. Add pork and marinade. Stir-fry till wok is very hot. Drizzle with 2 tbsp Shaoxing wine. Stir till absorbed. Sprinkle with salt and stir through. Add rice and stir through again. Drizzle with water used for soaking mushrooms. Stir till absorbed. Drizzle with water used for soaking dried prawns. Repeat stirring as before. Add water 2 tbsp at a time, stir-frying till absorbed after each addition. Rice should be cooked after adding ½ cup water, which should take about 10 minutes. Taste to see if it is. If it isn't or if it's too hard, add more water and stir-fry a few more minutes. Next, add oyster sauce and mix thoroughly. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Turn off heat. Sprinkle with half of omelette, deep-fried shallots, and spring onions. Add a few generous dashes of ground white pepper. Mix through. Plate and sprinkle with sesame seeds, and remaining omelette, shallots and spring onions as garnish.

生炒糯米飯 may be eaten hot or at room temperature. Chew slowly and chew well to appreciate the fragrance!

Selasa, 12 Juli 2011

Lemon Curd Marbled Cheese Cake


I love the lemon tree in my garden, especially when it's full of lemons. She (yes, she!) was planted by my grandfather in 1931, so the grand old dame is celebrating her 80th birthday this year. Her trunk is gnarled with age but Mrs Taango – that's what we call her because: lemon → tang → Taango – still produces a load of fruits every year.

Mrs Taango is so pretty I never get tired of looking at her. I love the bunches of yellow lemons hanging against the white-washed stone walls, and the kitchen door which is bright blue – the exact same shade of blue as the cloudless Mediterranean sky . . . .

'Hello? Hello? Earth to KT! Earth calling . . . KT!'

THUD! (Sound of KT landing back on earth.)

Huh? What? Oh shucks! I'm not in the Mediterranean! I don't have a garden. I don't have any 80-year-old lemon tree. I get my lemons from a crummy supermarket.
Oh no! NoOooO . . . !

But there is hope yet. Maybe the Greek or Italian economy will fall into a big, black hole, bigger and blacker than the one they're in now, and someone out there will sell his lemon orchard cheap . . . with a nice house thrown in . . . blue door optional!

*sigh*

Vewy depwessed . . . . I need something to cheer me up. Let me eat cake or, better still, let me eat cheesecake. And it has to be lemon, my favourite flavour for cheesecake because it's the perfect foil for cream cheese. One's tart; the other's rich – a great combination for food (and sometimes people too).

*munch munch munch, chomp chomp*

Rrrrr . . . . Whoa, my brain is whirring away with the cheesecake as fuel. You know what? If the earth opened up and swallowed the euro, that'd work too. Everything in ex-Euroland will go for a song, and I'll get all the lemon trees I want, plus a few olive orchards, and a house mansion with an infinity pool overlooking the Mediterranean Sea . . . .

*sigh*

More cheesecake, please!


LEMON CURD MARBLED CHEESECAKE
Source: Maggie Ruggiero, Gourmet, July 2006
(Recipe for one 9- to 9½-inch cake; serves 10)

Click here for the recipe. The cake should be baked for about 60 minutes instead of the recipe's guide for 45 minutes. A water-bath and cooling the cake in the oven would help prevent cracks.

The original recipe is rather rich for my Chinese palate, so I make a lighter (but still rich) version. Here's what I do:

Reduce the lemon curd recipe by 1 egg and 1 tbsp butter, and add ½ tsp cornflour so that the curd still thickens well with less eggs and butter.

Replace the sour cream (35% fat) in the filling with thick set natural yogurt (3% fat), drained to make it thicker and less sour.

Jumat, 01 Juli 2011

Udang Masak Nanas

It's another Mrs Wee Kim Wee recipe today: udang masak nanas. This is the fourth recipe I've tried from Cooking for the President. It's a classic Nyonya soup made with, as its name says, udang and nanas – or prawns and pineapple for those who don't speak Malay. It's great for whetting the appetite 'cause it's slightly tangy and a wee bit spicy. And prawns are, for me, always a treat.

Udang masak nanas is an easy soup whether you masak as in cook for real, or masak-masak as in play at cooking. Just gather all the ingredients in a pot and simmer away – kid stuff!

My mother made a dish very similar to Udang Masak Nanas but, instead of prawns, she used a small fish called kekek (ponyfish). The president's wife sometimes used the wonderfully tasty fish too. That's not surprising since the basic recipe is quite common and adaptable. You know what's surprising? Mrs Wee made omelettes with pig brains on Sundays as a treat, just like my mother! Her daughter, like me, had to clean the brains with toothpicks. And the two cooks' recipes were practically the same, not that one could vary a Chinese style omelette much.

It's a pity my mother has passed away. Otherwise, she'd be really tickled to see that she and the ex-first lady share a recipe as esoteric as pig brain omelette.

UDANG MASAK NANAS (PRAWNS IN SPICY PINEAPPLE SOUP)
Source: Cooking for the President, Wee Eng Hwa
(Recipe for 8 persons)

2 kg underripe pineapple, tart and not too juicy
Rempah kuning
30 g candlenuts
80 g galangal, wash, peel and grate
8 g turmeric, scrape off skin and wash
2 dried chillies, soak in warm water till soft, about 30 minutes
30 g large red chillies, wash and trim
100 g shallots, peel and wash

20 g belachan, toast and grind/pound
. . . or 8 tsp belachan powder
2 stalks lemongrass, lower part only, wash and crush
2 large turmeric leaves
. . . wash, tear from main vein 2.5 cm wide, and snip off fibrous ends
4 pieces tamarind skin
sugar to taste, about 8 tbsp
salt to taste, about 4 tsp salt
4 litres water (I used only 2 litres)

1 kg large or medium prawns, 16-32 pieces, trim, devein and wash
50 lemon basil leaves
Dip
4 red bird's eye chillies, rinse and crush
2 tsp dark soya sauce
4 tbsp light soya sauce
2 calamansi limes
rinse, halve and combine juice and peel with all other ingredient


Peel, core and rinse pineapple. Cut into chunky, bite size slices. Reserve core for making soup.

Pound or grind ingredients for rempah kuning till very fine.

Put all ingredients (including pineapple core) except sliced pineapple, prawns and lemon basil in a pot. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for 10 minutes, covered. Add sliced pineapple and top up with water if necessary to cover by about 1 cm. Simmer gently till soft, 10-15 minutes depending on how ripe the pineapples are. Discard pineapple core and tamarind skin. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. If soup lacks 'oomph', increase heat and reduce by boiling rapidly. Set aside till ready to serve.
'This is a classic Nonya soup with well-balanced sweetness, sourness and saltiness. The sugar sweetness is just enough to counter the tartness of the pineapple, but is not dominating . . . . The soup has character and substance, yet is not thick. It should be easy to drink.'
Wee Eng Hwa
When you're ready to eat, bring soup to a boil. Add prawns and poach till just cooked, stirring and turning as necessary to ensure even cooking. Transfer everything to a serving bowl immediately, arranging prawns on top. (Don't hide prawns underneath pineapple or leave them in the pot. Otherwise, they would overcook in the residual heat.) Sprinkle with lemon basil. Serve with chillies, dark and light soya sauce, and lime juice and peel combined as a dip.